Utekanje motorja

[Mars]

Živijo!

Kolega si je kupil avto z bencinskim motorjem in ker se z modelarstvom prvič srečuje me je vprašal
če mu lahko pomagam pri zagonu motorja. Sam se ukvarjam z letalskim modelarstvom in sem dosedaj
videl modele avtov samo od daleč( tudi njegovega še nisem videl), tako, da se na te zadeve ne spznam.
Nekaj letalskih motorjev sem utekel in približno se še spomnem kako se to naredi, kako se uteka avtomobilski
motor se mi pa samo svetlika. Upam da ima njegov motor zaganjač na vrvico..Ne vem kako se avto pri zagonu
postavi, kako deluje sklopka, kako je z napajanjem svečke. Malo se bral forum in videl da vas je kar nekaj,
ki se na te zadeve dobro spoznate, zato bi prosil če mi lahko na kratko opišete kako se uteče motor in na
kaj je treba pri tem paziti. Za kakršenkoli nasvet se vam zahvaljujem.



lp

[SERPENT]

Pozdravljen,
obstaja več načinov za utekanje motorja. Nekaj dobrih nasvetov:

http://www.novarossi.com/avvertenze/ing/running.html
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=2&pid=2237&exp=13
http://www.ic-online.co.uk/eng1.htm

lp
Jernej

[Mars]

Hvala ti.

lp

[Papak]

Naj bi šlo tudi hitreje.

Tole sem prebrao na MYTSN.COM forumu



In an article written by Mike Myers, I read that Ron Paris breaks in his engines by running them rich for only one tank of fuel then after the first tank, he lets the engine cool. On the second tank, he leans it out for race conditions. On Rons website he explains how to break in an engine using the long overly rich process many of us are probably more familiar with. I've read various articles that explain how a long rich break in can stress the conrod. None of the articles were written very recently. I am wondering if any of you guys could elaborate on which method you have found works best.
Julius' way RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
ROBBY DE VEIRMAN (BE) 02−03−01 at 08:40
I run the engine at a rich setting for one tank and then lean it out to a setting that is very close to the setting you would use for racing. Then I drive carefully for about 6 to 8 tanks of fuel. Just accelerate slowly out of corners and lift of the throttle on the straight. Gradually going quicker, make sure the engine runs at a lot of different rpm's and load levels.

I can hear you think that this puts a lot of stress on the motor and that it will wear out much quicker. The thing is, it doesn't. Actually by running it rich you will put a lot of stress on the conrod. What you hope to achieve during a break in period is that all moving parts (especially the piston and liner) wear down a bit to get them to an exact fit. One can imagine that at a rich setting there is so much oil going through the engine that nothing actually wears. So even after a liter of fuel the piston-liner fitting is still very tight. So if you now start leaning out the engine and driving it at high speed you'll actually do more damage than good. Furthermore running at a very rich setting results in a low engine temperature. At low temperatures the fitting of the engine components is tighter than at the normal operating temperature (about 100 celcius). So if it does run in, the fitting of the components will become too loose when the engine is adjusted for racing.

Written by JULIUS KOLF in one of his columns(which are unfortunately unavailable for the moment)on the old serpent side.
Thanks Robby! RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
SHANE SOMERSET (US) 02−03−01 at 18:39
I thought that was the case but was waiting for some conformation before giving that method a try.
RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
MIKE MYERS (US) 25−05−01 at 23:48
Shane, I just found this. Actually, what I wrote was a little different from that.

Ron suggested taking a new engine in the car, starting it, and letting the car idle for five minutes. Then stop the engine, make sure the crank is free to turn (not "locked"), and wait for five minutes. Repeat this process three times (idle, wait, idle, wait, idle, wait) and then go out and grdually lean out the engine, starting with a rich setting. That usually takes only one or two tankfulls to get things set.

Lots of different ways to break in an engine - this is just one. It works, it's easy, it's goof-proof, and the engines seem to run really nicely when you're done.
Quickly RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
FASTFRED BOWEN-SMITH (US) 19−06−01 at 23:50
Best to do the first run in as noted, get the parts hot and seated.

Next go for some temp and RPM, 180 degrees, and 14K to 20K RPM.
You DO NOT need a lot of break-in time with these engines. Too much break-in is really just a wearing out of your motor!
RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
MIKE MYERS (US) 10−12−01 at 05:27
What I wrote, is what Ron told me, and it wasn't a tankfull. Ron said to start the engine, and let it idle for five minutes. Shut it off, make sure the flywheel could turn freely, and wait five minutes. Repeat this whole process three times, then go out and drive the car easy, gradually leaning out the engine. Works great!

[šupak]

papak
misliš da vsi razumemo engleski?

[Papak]

Ma sej vem, revirji!

Če ne znaš, ne rabiš vedet.....